Washington Husky

By Matt Ginella
Photo By Joey Terrill July 2008

I was recently standing in a huddle of golfniks -- folks who read about and know all things golf. The topic of conversation: Washington's Chambers Bay. "Is it as remote as Bandon Dunes?" "What airport do you fly into?" "Where do you stay?" There were more questions that stumped the unstumpable. "Is there other good golf nearby?"

Let's start with the man behind the plan. It's uncanny how much John Ladenburg resembles former Dallas Cowboys coach Barry Switzer. Ladenburg is the county executive with a budget big enough to produce golf's latest prodigy outside Tacoma, Wash.

Map: Jason Lee

In a move unprecedented in golf's modern era, the USGA awarded Chambers Bay, only a year old in June, a U.S. Amateur in 2010 and a U.S. Open in 2015. Ladenburg deserves the credit for landing such a quick commitment. He looked at a big bowl of sand in an old rock quarry and saw a championship. Ladenburg wanted a links-style course for walking only. He considered 56 designers but went with Robert Trent Jones Jr., impressed by the strength of the architect's assembled team.

"Jones said he needed a lot of land for a links-style course," says Ladenburg. "I told him we had 900 acres. Jones said he needed wind. I reminded him that this was where a bridge blew down [the infamous Tacoma Narrows Bridge collapse of 1940]. Jones said he needed to move a lot of earth. I told him he was in a giant sandbox, and we had a mining permit. Then I told him what I needed from him. I told him to build me 18 perfect holes, and tell me how much it costs."

After a recent visit to Chambers Bay, I returned impressed and bearing answers to the golfniks' water-cooler inquiries. Your trip begins with a flight into Sea-Tac airport, serving the greater Seattle area. You'll want to stay in downtown Tacoma, an easy 20-mile commute south from the airport. Tacoma has lived in Seattle's shadow, but in large part because of Chambers Bay -- and the fanatics eager to play an Open-worthy venue -- this city's golf future has traction.

I stayed at Hotel Murano, which opened in March and has 320 rooms. Sleek and modern, the hotel features a tribute to famous glass artists (I didn't know there was such a thing) on every floor. Peak season is June to October. Rooms start at $159 a night. The hotel is a short walk or a three-minute drive from a great steak at El Gaucho (outstanding with a side of sweet corn). For seafood, go to the corner of the block to Sea Grill (get the "wicked shrimp" appetizer). If you're looking for sports, big flat screens and a good selection of local beers, walk a block to the Varsity Grill.